Eyes Were Made For Seeing
It's like I knew it would happen, but I kept putting it off, because I was more interested in actually surfing and being in the water. For a long time, I couldn't think of anything worse than standing on the beach with a camera when the waves were good.
But about nine years ago, I began to experiment with filming surfing. Friends and I would swap between surfing and shooting, just mucking about with cameras on the beach really. But I began to take it more seriously and enjoyed the creativity of the shooting side of things as well as editing. It all kind of grew from there, and I taught myself along the way.
And how have you enjoyed the journey? What do you feel you've achieved?
I was so passionate about surfing that I wanted to try my hand at making something special for surfing's sake. Now, after having made a couple of films, it has just become part of what I do as a surfer. For me, it's kind of like making surfboards. It's almost like I can't help myself - it comes back to the inner drive I have to make stuff.
